Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
